Climbing Routes
Flex Capacitor (2p: 10c) at base of the Grand Wall
A 2-pitch meat and potato crack adventure at the base of the Grand Wall. The second pitch is a memorable Perry’s Layback like pitch.
Skywalker (5p: 5.8) at Shannon Falls
In 1967, Dick Culbert and Mike Warr climbed up this jungle. Over the 2010-11 winter, I unearthed this moderate line. The route is an excellent introductory multipitch. Ample protection, low angle climbing, wild positions, and bolted belays make this a climb that opens doors to relatively new climbers.
Gripped reports on Skywalker FA
Sonnie Trotter reviews Skywalker
Klahane Crack Area (5.7-10b) at Shannon Falls
This cragging area features long, continues features of moderate difficulty. In 2011, I tidied up the area, adding anchors where needed, cleaning up existing climbs (Cardhu Crack & Dirty Dickey) and adding a new 10a arch called Split Decision. The area now has 6 routes between 5.7 and 10b.
Right Wing (6p: 5.10c) on Slhanay (“The Squaw”)
This route follows the most prominent corner in the middle of the cliff. After having been neglected since the 80s, I recleaned this route in 2007, and reintroduced the bolted belay in the middle of the Filibuster in 2011. A tour de force, Right Wing involves beautiful crack climbing from start to finish. The unforgettable “Filibuster” pitch(es) is amongst the most sustained pitches for the grade in Squamish, and the “What’s Left” variation to pitch 6(see photo) tends to leave its own impression.
Download a topo or visit the route blog.
The Upper Black Dyke (4p: 5.10b) on the Grand Wall.
This four-pitch climb follows a basalt-infused dyke through the upper part of the sheer Grand Wall. It now offers a moderate, bolted route from Bellygood Ledge to the top of the Grand Wall, thus allowing “mortals” to gain the summit rim after the lower Wall. Retro work included cleaning and bolting the dyke itself on pitch 2.
Download a topo or visit the route blog.
Genesis Wall (5.8-5.10c) at Murrin Park.
This crag used to have a popular route called Genesis. Just 40m from the parking lot, the crag still became vegetated (from trees dropping needles). In the summer of 2009, I cleaned up the crag, straightened out the old line(s), and added a few more. The crag now has five enjoyable routes: Genesis; Geneside; Cain & Able; and Original Thin. Jeff Thompson added Pseudo Buddhists between Cain & Able and Original Thin.
Wire Tap (5p: 5.10a; 5.8 - 5.11c) on Olesen Creek Wall.
Damien McCombs, Brock Wilson, and I developed a new area on the left side of Olesen Creek Wall, just above the Chief backside trail. At the base are a half-dozen cragging routes in the 5.8 to 5.11c range; and Wire Tap goes up through the middle for a 5-pitch 5.10a route.
Download a topo and see photos & discussion
Mosquito Area in the Smoke Bluffs.
Over the winter of 2009-10, I cleaned up 3 old routes and added 6 new ones at this popular spot. The nine improved routes are almost exclusively crack climbs and generally in the 5.7 to low 5.10 range.
Milk Road (9p; 5.10d A0 or 5.11d) on Tantalus Wall
The Milk Road is similar in difficulty to the Grand Wall Route. Most pitches involve 5.10 crack climbing. After a new first pitch, the route follows 3 pitches of Milk Run before angling left on or near Crescent Ramp.
Milk Road makes Climbing Magazine’s inaugural Hotlist
Right Wing
Upper Black Dyke
Wire Tap
Geniside
Over the past 8 years, I have developed a number of routes in Squamish. My focus is on developing inviting routes of moderate difficulty in accessible places. Squamish Climbing Magazine published an article of mine about route development in Issue 2.
Completed Routes
Split Decision
Skywalker
Mosquito Area
Milk Road
Flex Capacitor
